22 & 23.07.23 / An unexpected weekend.

How was your weekend?

It was rainy…. Actually, it rained so hard that I thought I would not see the sun again.

Ok, maybe I’m overreacting…. But since I had to stay indoors, I dusted off my Nikkor 55mm. It is the only lens that I own with a “macro feature” and I set myself to be occupied “seeing the little things” with a different perspective.

Nikon D700 / Nikkor AIs 55mm Macro

As unexpected as it came, all the rain suddenly went away. As the dark clouds gives a way for the sun to shine once more, the birds also came out from their hideaways.

I don’t consider myself a “nature photographer”, but when I see an uncommon colored bird arriving near to my backyard, I take my chances! Of course, a prime lens with a 55mm in focal length wouldn’t be a suitable choice to capture small birds at distance. Then I had to change the 55mm for my humble Tamron 70-300mm lens to document those birds paying us a visit.

*Golden hooded Tanagers.
A fairly cropped photo from 12 megapixels. Still, quite usable if you ask me.
Scarlet-rumped Tanager

On Sunday, since the weather give us a second chance, We end up visiting some friends in a near town. They live by a river where life goes at a slow pace.

Back to the old Nikkor 55mm. Which it can be use as a regular lens as well. Being 55mm on full frame or 82.5 mm on cropped sensors.

From heavy rain to a pause of sun. This weekend turned out much different as I expected it. We were received with a warm gesture by our old friends. We enjoyed a calm conversation just sitting by the river with laughter from memories of past times. A cup of coffee in the hand and a smile in the heart.

Thanks for reading!

(Just) a misty sunday’s afternoon.

I didn’t want to waste my resting day stuck at home. Outside it was covered by a dense fog. Pretty much a blank flat scenario for photography… Right? Well, at least that was what I thought.

Some sparrows waiting for the sun.

I grabbed one of my favorite cameras: The Nikon D700. I chose a fix focal lens to make it more “a challenge”, so I paired it with an old Nikkor AI 35mm 2.8 from the year 197x/198x…. I don’t really know… But older than me, for sure! I have noticed a “nostalgic film like” look in the final image when I use that particular lens with my D700.

@Nikkor AI 35mm f/2.8

It was just a short walk to a hill near to my home. And even when I don’t take a lot of photos when I go out with a camera “to clear my head”. I really like the results that I got this time.

There is a second tower that is hard to see because of the mist.
Definitely, there is some “kind of magic” going on with the D700 and that vintage 35mm.

Life nowadays is intense. I know that sometimes it’s difficult to find time for ourselves. But you owe it to yourself and the ones you love. Take the time. Visit family and old friends. Go out camping, hiking, biking… Whatever your heart feels. Life is to short. Don’t waste it!

Thanks for reading!

NIKON D4 / The Beast

Hello, and welcome back!

The following it might not be the case in everybody’s life. But maybe this situation it’s going to resonate with you as well. Sometimes we buy things that we want but don’t necessarily need. After a while, you realize that and end up selling the article to someone else who actually need it most than you do or at least can find an adequate use for it.

Well, my dear reader…. That’s not my experience with the Nikon D4 — a.k.a The Beast –. The D4 is the camera that I don’t need but at the same time I can’t let go! As some of you already know, I don’t make my living out of photography. I’m not a wildlife or sport photographer neither. So, I don’t really need many auto focus points or advance tracking systems with high frame rates of photos per second…. — Then, you may ask — But why you don’t sell it?? Before answer to you that question, let’s see a brief information about the history of the D4.

The D4 was (still is at least to me) a flagship D-slr manufactured by Nikon. It was announced in January of 2012 and then launched on February of 2012. The retail price back in 2012 was $5.999,95. Today, you can find them on Ebay from $650 to a $1500, being the average price $1100. Of course, the price will vary according to the camera condition, but you can always ask respectfully to the seller if he or she are willing to gave you a better price for it.

The Nikon D4 with a Nikkor 55 mm macro.

(some) Specifications.

(1) The D4 is a professional camera designed for harsh environments and heavy use. It’s a tool well suited for wildlife photography, sport or fast phased action scenes. But you can always use it to capture images of landscapes, studio work, food photography, anything you can think of. As long as you don’t mind it’s size and weight, basically it’s a d-slr capable for any task.

(2) 11 frames per second – or 10fps with continuous AF – and (3) 51 points of auto focus. Ten frames per second is a rate fast enough to capture any sport invented by the humanity or the wildlife’s unpredictable behavior in nature. And I know what you’re thinking. The 51 auto focus may not sounds “enough for today’s standards”, but if in the year 2012 professionals in every photographic area were able to get their work done with the D4, then you should be capable to achieve your golds as well.

You can photograph moving subjects with any camera, for sure. Just take in consideration that faster frame rates per second and dedicated tracking systems makes the task easier to accomplish.

(4) It’s a full frame (35mm) sensor with 16 megapixels. Well, 16.2 megapixels CMOS sensor, if you can’t live without rounded numbers. Just 4 megapixels added from the previous D3/D3S. With the flagship d-slr cameras, Nikon always has kept the megapixel count fairly low ( even when higher megapixel sensors were available ). I dare to say that they were aiming to kept cleaner files at high ISO’s with this “lower megapixels formula”. Let’s remember that this breed of cameras are designed for sports and action scenes. Many times indoors or at night in sporting events with artificial lights where faster shutter speeds are needed to freeze motion. So, it’s a safe bet to keep the megapixel count low to reduce noise at high ISO outputs.

(5) The ISO of the camera on default goes from 100 to 12800 but can be set from 50 to 204800 – by turning on the expanded mode on the ISO settings –. (6) The shutter can go from 30 seconds to 1/8000 of a second and the lifespan is expected to endure 400.000 actuactions. (7) the viewfinder covers 100% of the frame.

(8) The D4 is able to record video in 1080p – The D4 was the first flagship D-slr in the Nikon’s line up capable to record video. Just take notice that if you need 4k video, face detection, auto tracking, then you should keep looking for any other camera model. If you’re a videographer, you’ll find the D4’s features too basic for your trade. I’m not implying that the videos coming out from the D4 are utterly useless. I’m just letting you know what the D4 can do and which are it’s technical limitations. The quality of the content created with the D4 is up to you! (9) The D4 uses two types of cards for storing your files. One slot is for a Compact Flash and one slot is for a XQD card. It was the first Nikon flagship camera with a dedicated XQD card slot.

(10) the body has a Magnesium Alloy and weather sealing. It is solid and robust, but also heavy. The whole ruggedness of the D4 design comes at a price. The D4 makes my Nikon D700 feel like a toy. And take it from me, the D700 it’s already a very sturdy camera since it’s the D3’s little sister. The D4 is a flagship workhorse camera. The integrated vertical grip on the camera body is not an exotic whim. It’s part of the design since it’s an added feature that professionals requires frequently on the field. Being big and heavy it’s a deliberated part of the D4’s build. It’s the nature of the beast. So, no… I won’t categorize it’s ruggedness and bulky size as a negative aspect. If you buy a D4 — or any D# for that matter –, you must know it before hand and be okay with that.

You can find the long boring list of specifications here!

The vertical grip is an integrated part of the D4’s body design.

The Image quality.

There’s nothing to complain about. The D4 renders nice colors and has great latitude when it comes to dynamic range — as any camera this holds true specially in low ISO’s values — . As I stated before, the high ISO performance is excellent if you use it up to 12.800 ISO. Beyond the 12.800 ISO value, the image quality increases it’s progressive degradation. I know, I know… But it only has 16.2 megapixels! — some of you may say — But trust me. The image quality is there. Many megapixels would help you if you need to crop a lot, I’ll give you that! But in the practice, you don’t need a 45 megapixel sensor to make big prints anyway. Take the time to challenge yourself and try using a low megapixel count camera for a while. Let me know later how that experience was for you.

The D4’s dynamic range of the raw files allows you great flexibility on post editing.
Contrast scene test @ 24mm — Expose for the highlights. Recover details from the shadows on post.
Ethan, the White Cat. A useful example of a 12.800 ISO image from the D4.

The D4 as a camera today.

A flagship camera bears in its shoulders the burden of the abuse that comes with the heavy duty of the professional work out in the field. This breed of dslr’s are designed to endure thousands of photos each day by sports shooters, the extreme climate conditions that face the wildlife photographers on the arctic or the most unpredictable situations that photojournalist on assignment has to go through in order to achieve the wining image for the cover on the editorial. For those reasons, the D4 is a beast. It is still a pro grade camera capable of producing stunning results today. That’s why I claimed some lines above that the D4 is still today a flagship model from Nikon in its own right.

Another example of a high contrast scene shooting against the bright light.

There is no need to over editing the D4 files. Some basic adjustments and you’re done!

The color rendition coming out of the D4’s raw files is a joy to the eye.

16 megapixels can be cropped and still get useful results.

Is the D4 for you?

To be honest, I don’t think that the D4 (or D3, D4S, D5, etc) is suited for everyone. Don’t get me wrong. I just feel that not everybody would commit to carry around a full size, rugged and heavy d-slr. This machines certainly don’t pass unnoticed when you walk around with it. Many people now is looking for a smaller and discrete cameras for their travels or just documenting the every day’s life. If is not the case and you actually need the features found on the D4 to go out in the wilderness or you need it for sport events, weddings or any professional work; then the beast is solid choice of a tool for your trade. I’ve gave you my personal considerations about the D4. It has great image quality and specifications wise, it is a superb camera indeed. But “if a flagship beast is a camera for you?”…. It’s up to you decide the answer for that question.

The Arenal Volcano out in the distance. @ 300mm

But why you don’t sell it?? Objectively, the Nikon D4 is over qualified for the passive type of photography that I do. But do you know what? Sometimes a camera goes beyond of it’s mere specifications. That’s when it became something that matters to the owner. In my case, the color rendition of the sensor, the dynamic range that it’s raw files produce and it’s low light performance are enough reasons to keep it in my humble camera collection. Besides it’s image quality, a full size d-slr is not an issue for me. Instead, I prefer to carry the most rugged camera when I go for camping out in the nature. Also, having available in my hands a camera with a continuous frame rate of 10 fps and a responsive tracking system, has made me wanting to capture some sports and action images. A field on the photography realm that is outside my comfort zone. And that’s okay.

The last light before nightfall.

Thanks for reading!

Canon 5D MK2’s overview 14 years later…

Is the Canon 5D Mark II worth to consider in 2022 (23, 24 … ) ??

Yes, it is! The end.

Now, being serious. I dislike that kind of titles in a form of a question when I’m searching videos on YouTube. But I’m guilty of that too, I won’t deny it. To me it’s like pinned point out the obvious. Any camera prior to this year that still can create images is worthy to consider as a viable option. In fact, specially “the old equipment” since you can find pro level gear for bargain prices.

That applies to the Canon 5D MK II for sure. Released on November of 2008 with a retail price of $2699, it was way out of my budget back in the day. But the idea of owning one never left my mind. Nikon D850, one day you’ll be next! ( Play imaginary angelic choir music in your head now) Fast forward on august 8th of 2022, I finally got in my hands a pristine condition 5D MK II with just 5933 on the shutter count, accessories and a 50 mm EF lens for just $350. ( You can stop playing the angelic music now ) I know, the economy is tight. But for the price, low shutter count and mint condition of that unit, I couldn’t let it go. I may be justifying myself here, but it has been a “dream camera” for me since I was a teenager.

The Design.

The hardware, the mechanical interface that you hold in your hands while you make adjustments to correct the exposure and materialize in an image your vision. That’s what I want to write about first. Personally, I think the design of the Canon 5D’s is just beautiful. I mean, not only the 5D MK II, but the entire Canon’s 5D line up. There is a certain elegance yet modern sobriety in the shape of the curves carved on the camera’s body. You could glance the 5D all day long and don’t get bored by the way it looks.

The grip of the 5D is comfortable allowing you by result a steady hold of the camera. The shutter button can be reached easily since is located in a well thought out spot. The LCD 3’’ screen displays the images in a tasty manner. At the LCD screen’s right, you’ll find the “quick control dial” (yes, the spiny wheel) that will allow you using the menu, visualizing photos and make adjustments in a breeze! Another useful feature is the joystick that comes handy if you need to change the selection of the focus points. Don’t hate me, Canon’s fans out there… I do have a complaint. I just can’t understand the “on / off” switch on the Canon’s cameras. Why a small “two positions” lever in the back of the camera body? Why Canon? On my experience with Pentax and Nikon cameras, the on/off switch is next to the shutter button and intuitively it’s at your finger tip. You can turn on your camera and with the same index finger press the shutter when you are ready. Well, maybe is the Canon’s way to do things, not an issue by itself. But surely it will take me some time to get used to.

(Canon did change the position of the On/Off switch to the top next to “Mode Dial” on the 5D MK3)

(some) Specifications. The good and the bad.

(1) The 5D MK II its a professional camera in the Canon’s line up. But just like the Nikon’s D800 and D810’s cameras, is not a professional camera suited for sports and action – that’s why the 1D’s breed exist for –, instead the 5D’s are for studio work, portraits, product photography, landscapes, photojournalism (?)…. You could take photographs of wildlife, sport or action scenes with the 5D MK II, for sure. Just take notice that (2) 3.9 frames per second and only (3) 9 points of auto focus may turn the task a little difficult to accomplish. Specially if you are objective by knowing that there are cameras out there designed for those purposes. (4) It’s a full frame (35mm) sensor with 21 megapixels. Almost the double amount found in the original 5D from 2005 with 12 megapixels. (5) The ISO of the camera on default goes from 100 to 6400 but can be set from 50 to 25600 – by turning on the expanded mode on the ISO settings –. (6) The shutter can go from 30 seconds to 1/8000 of a second and the lifespan is expected to endure 150.000 actuactions. Nevertheless there are some documented cases of Canons 5D’s surpassing a million shutter count – 1.000.000 – that’s just impressive! And even when I love the crunchy solid sound of the shutter of my “Beast” – the Nikon D4 – I do like (and I appreciate) the quieter damped sound of the 5D shutter mechanism. In some social photographic situations, a stealth shutter will help you to pass unnoticed. As you may expect from a full frame dslr, (7) the viewfinder is big and bright but covers 98% of the frame. Not really a deal breaker.

Since the 5D MK II it’s a professional grade dslr, (8) the body has a Magnesium Alloy and weather sealing. It is solid although not as robust and sturdy as my Nikon D700 – which literally its a tank! – but maybe that’s why the 5D feels lighter between the two cameras.

And I almost forgot to mention this, back in 2008 the 5D MK II took the world by storm since it was the first dslr (9) able to record video in 1080p – it may not sound a big of a deal by now – but in the year 2008 it was something “revolutionary” in the industry. I know, I know… the first dslr that recorded video was the Nikon D90, not the Canon 5D MK II… but I guess that “720p” wasn’t hot enough to make a fuzz about. Just keep in mind this: If you’re looking for 4k, 8K or whatever the next K number is, then you should search for most recent camera models. The 4k video, face detection, eyes tracking and all those features commonly found in today’s market, weren’t a reality back in 2008. However, in the years 2008, 2009, 2010 and so on, many videographers around the globe were able to create stunning video with this “old technology”. The same example can be set with photography. The latest and greatest equipment won’t upgrade your abilities magically. So, don’t let written specs in a camera manual slow down your vision and creative process! (10) WARNING! It uses CF cards as storage! – Just kidding – Not an issue for me since I own a few “outdated cameras” already and I have a Compact Flash reader. And shouldn’t be an issue for you neither. The CF cards are still abundant on Ebay and so the CF card readers. Also you can use a USB cable to transfer the photos from your 5D to your computer. But I think you should know it before you make a decision.

I don’t want to write an extended and boring post for you to read. The truth is that any camera model — no matter which brand you choose — will have a long list of specifications to cover. But I think that the ten features that I just mentioned above may be the main specs of the 5D MK II. And if you’re taking your time to learn about this dslr and you have in mind to eventually get one for yourself, those same specs are the main points to consider.

Lenses.

The Canon EF mount has been around for a while now. Since 1987, to be precise. Out there are millions of lenses to choose from. Their prices may vary according to the lens condition or the grade they rank in the Canon’s line up, being the L Series the professional grade lenses, those will represent a more expensive investment in exchanged for better image quality. But you don’t have to massacre your bank account to get decent images. There are lenses for fair prices that will helping you to document life without going into bankruptcy – like the plastic fantastic 50 mm or the 40mm pancake lenses –. Using other brands lenses with special adapters to the EF mount, is always a viable and affordable option. Besides the Canon EF proprietary lenses, there are also third party options like Tamron and Tokina, just to name a couple of brands. But no matter which one you choose, just keep in mind that it must be an “EF” compatible lens. Since the 5D is a full frame camera, the “EF-S” lenses are not recommended for it. The EF-S lenses (designed for APS-C sensors) will not cover the entire field of view of the 35mm sensor creating as result vignetting in the image. Instead, If you have a APS-C (crop sensor) Canon camera or if you’re planning to buy one, you can use the EF lenses on it with no vignetting issues since the full frame designed lenses will cover the whole APS-C sensor.

The image quality.

Let’s dive straight to the point here. As you may expect from a full frame sensor with 21 megapixels, it is excellent in almost all circumstances. (1) Dynamic range: If you are an avid landscape photographer, always carrying around a tripod and polarize filters on the go, then you’ll have the chance to apply the proper technique to get the shot that you picture in your head. But if you go out with your 5D MK II casually, without a tripod or polarize filters, then using the lowest ISO settings possible for landscapes – I’m talking about “contrast scenes” here – you can recover 4 stops (or even a little more) from the underexposed areas of the photo and still get away with an useful image. In a practical sense, I don’t see the need to push shadows as high as 4 stops. Any detail in the shadows usually will reveal itself at the push mark of 2.5 stops. Of course, if you increase the values on your ISO settings, then the dynamic range will decrease as result.

(2) The ISO performance: As a rule of thumb – in any camera – the lower ISO values will kept the cleanest outputs on the raw files. This is not a secret for you if you are already addicted to photography. The higher ISO performance is probably the main concern for many photographers – I’m including myself here – because half of our lives we are in the dark of night. Many times I go out for photos in the daylight but I return home at night. It’s only logical wanting to go out with a camera that shows no fear to the dark. The 5D MK II performs well in this regard. You can use only – artificial – ambient light (with no flash) and get decent results with 3200, 4000, 6400 ISO. But you must try to get your exposure right at higher ISO values when you take the photo. If you try to push up the file while you’re editing a value of 4000, 6400 ISO’s – even just a bit – you’ll find some weird artifacts coming out of the shadows of the photo. The lost of dynamic range becomes tangible at this point. Personally, I think the NEF raws from my Nikon’s are more “forgiving” in this area than the Canon’s raw files. The noise or “digital grain” on the high ISO values of the 5D MK II it’s pleasant to the eye, it’s fairly small and is not intrusive to the sight. But everything in life has boundaries. If you go as high as 12.800 or 25.600 ISO, you’ll see image degradation.

(3) The famous “Canon’s colors”: The so called Canon’s colors are there… but you have to dig them out on post edition. Well, at least is what I feel if I compare the raw files of the 5D MK II’s with the files that came out of the “5D Classic” – which I used to own – and the files of my humble 8.2 megapixels Canon 20D. I mean, you don’t have to edit the files of those cameras too much to get the “warm film like” tones. In my experience with the raw files of the 5D MK II, the colors are nice but you have to play your part on post-editing. But in the same time, I know that different camera models – even if they are from the same manufacturer – will vary their color science. I already have notice this with my Nikon’s. Maybe I’m just too picky!

To whom is the 5D MK II for? (Professional grade on a budget)

The years went by. “Better cameras” has come into the market since 2008. Regardless all of this, the 5D MK II hasn’t loose it’s status of a professional grade dslr. If you think about it, we are living in a great transition era — from the photographic perspective (at least) — where technology has evolved so wonderfully that even “outdated cameras” like the 5D MK II still represents a solid choice to create images (and video) with a modest budget. Probably it may not excel for action or sport photography, but for the vast majority of photo assignments the 5D MK II will be an excellent tool for the job. Is it for you? Again, if you are a wildlife, action or sports photographer, the 5D MK II may slow you down with it’s limited frame rate and “insufficient” 9 focus points. Being objective, is not impossible to capture dynamic action images with it, but a higher frame rate and more advance auto focus tracking system camera would be a smarter buy if that is what you need the gear for. (A Canon 7D, maybe?). If photography moves you in a mellow phase rhythm where all the rest of the 98% photographic applications can be achieved with no rush, taking in consideration how low the price is on this pro level dslr nowadays, then the 5D MK II will keep up with you for many years to come.

Thanks for your time.

2022’s Photo Project: Low megapixels, low price.

Hello, reader!

First off, I really appreciate your time for stopping by to read this post. It’s been a while since I wrote down some of my random ideas about this simple concept, but yet powerful and fulfilling matter: “Photography”.

I would like to keep this reading “short and sweet”. As you may discern from the title, this article it’s about the general principle that you could get decent image quality with a small quantity of megapixels – well, small quantity by modern terms, I should say –. I’ll mention some basics technicalities (if necessary) but this is not a “review oriented” publication. As some of you may already know, I talk about photography from the perspective of a passionate enthusiast, someone who doesn’t making a living out of the photography as a professional career. For many of us, photography represents just that: A passion! But a passion that won’t generated us an income to justify the purchase of the latest equipment. So, we have to make slow and calculated moves in order to get in our hands cameras and lenses that can hold quality ( yeah, even if they are “outdated”) and value for the price that we invest.

As an example of a concise and studied purchase, one of my favorite cameras is the Nikon D700. With just 12 megapixels, image quality is there, it’s solid and strong enough to use it as a weapon, at least if your life eventually depends on it! You can see my review of the D700 here!

This is what 10.2 megapixels are still capable of

One day, taking in consideration how much quality the humble 12 megapixels sensor of the D700 still produces even for today’s standards and social media uses, I thought to myself: “ How much lower can I go in the “megapixel count” and still get useful results?” That’s where the “2022’s low megapixels, low budget project” was born. Always curious as a cat, since I couldn’t get outside for photos thanks to the rainy weekends in my country, I start to search and investigate about models of cameras that could fall in that lower megapixel count category. But of course, lower megapixel count hasn’t to be equivalent to entry level cameras. And even when basically any camera can produce images, I went to look for more rugged models. In my search, this brands and models stepped up: Nikon D200, Canon 10D (20D, 30D, 40D) and Pentax K10D. I was able to get a Nikon D200 in pristine condition with only 2800 shutter actuations. The best $80 I ever spent! That’s a 10.2 megapixels camera with a CCD sensor (my first CCD sensor camera, actually) In the Canon’s line up, I got a Canon 20D with an 8.2 megapixels sensor for just $40. Well, what about the Pentax K10D?? I have seen online beautiful images taken with that K10D’s 10 megapixel CCD sensor… I won’t deny I really would like to give a try. But I haven’t come across with an unit in good condition for a fair price. You know, that’s the thing when you look for second hand equipment. Sure, you can take your chances if you want and buy the cheapest and most beat up camera that first appears in your search results. But I’m in the other end of the spectrum. Instead, I would recommend you to be patience. I like gently used cameras that looks like new. That means your investment will give you years of service and joy for a long time to come.

Ok, let’s go to the point here! Can you get quality images with a low megapixel sensor?? Yes, of course you can! But just like everything in life, using cameras from 2005, 2008, 2010 (you get the idea) in the field will have some trade offs in exchange. You must be aware of some of them in case you’re by now as curious as me about this “sub $100” project to create photographs.

Here we are talking about old dslr’s technology. I can’t cover it up! I have to be objective and totally honest about this topic. Those “15 (+) years old cameras” are very far from being perfect technological machines. Of course, for the price you can get decent image quality for a lot of applications. But it’s only fair to you knowing before hand about the positive and negatives implications of owning an outdated dslr.

The Pros:

1) Let’s point out the obvious: The Low price. You should be able to get a Nikon, Pentax, Canon or some other brands for a $100 or less. The price will vary according the overall condition of the camera. Sometimes you can even find them with a lens or memory cards. For example, if you already have Pentax lenses, you could try to find a Pentax body and save money on lenses. In my case, I already had Nikon lenses, so I didn’t felt the urge to invest in some kit lens that optically is not even a good buy. I have a Canon’s to Nikon’s lens adapter. So, I can use manually my Nikon lenses in the 20D body while keeping the investment low. As you can tell, (1) anyone could start in photography from zero with a very modest investment. (2) If you already have some equipment and you’re wonder how would be like to try another camera brand to see the results for yourself, well, you can do it for a cheap price. At least now is possibility. (3) To teach your children how to learn the principles of photography without spending $2000 in camera equipment. (4) Let’s say that you’re going to travel to some place and want to carry an inexpensive camera that still be able to give great photographs, well, there you have the answer! We have covered four possible circumstances where a low budget camera could be handy to have.

2) Small size files, more hard drive space: The raw .NEF files from my 10.2 megapixel Nikon D200 haves an average size of 15 megabits. If you save only your edited jpg’s for web applications, your hard drive space will thank you for it. Personally, I don’t mind about the storage space. But for some of you it could be a positive aspect to consider. Regarding to the raw files coming out from this old cameras, your current version of preferred software shouldn’t have any issue to reading them for further editing. And I hope that you can see from the photos in this publication that the image quality is actually very respectful.

3) Built quality: Well, this will depend on the model that you may be interesting in. At least the cameras listed above are “Mid-level” models. That means that you could get a sturdy rugged metal chassis and some weather sealing for your money. Certainly, nothing last forever. But this “higher end models” should endure for a longer time than their entry level’s counterparts.

4) Charge per battery: If the lifespan of the battery its still usable, then a single charge will last you for an eternity. If the battery doesn’t hold its charge, probably it is because it’s age and you’ll need a replacement. I’ve been using a generic battery brand called Kastar with great results. Even when the battery last long enough, I always carry a few spare batteries “just in case”.

5) Image quality: Is this actually why we are here for, right? Well, I hate bringing this to you. Great image quality can be achieved with this older cameras for sure. But since we’re dealing with the technology that was available from 15 years ago (or even more), the technical aspects will gave to us some limitations that we must know and understand before expecting perfection under certain lighting scenarios. So, It’s safe to argue that “image quality” by itself can be divided in a positive and a negative side. Since both sides are complementary in a single subject, I’ll mention the positives first.

1) The sensor from a 10.2 megapixel camera will give you a Raw file of 3904×2616 in size. The Canon’s 8.2 megapixel sensor files are 3504×2336 in size, being 7 Megabits the average size of the CR2 raw files. That’s plenty for printing poster size pictures, photo books of your journeys and it’s more than enough for any web or social media application. As you probably know by now, the picture quality of any photograph – regardless the megapixel count – is deeply connected with the optics you use. Good optics, great results. Simple.

8.2 or 10.2 megapixels are more than enough for social media and quite decent for printing applications.
Using the native raw profiles from the CCD sensor of the Nikon D200 will allow you to unveil a beautiful gamut of colors!

2) The colors of the old sensors have a certain warm and character. Specially the colors of those CCD sensors. They have the closest look of film, without being film (if it make sense to you) The images those cameras can render on the raw files have an inviting depth, they have soul, charisma, it’s actually quite difficult translate to words the feelings they produces (at least to me).

Ethan, the White Cat. The colors of the old sensors have a certain warm and character, they have soul and charisma.

The Cons:

1) Image quality (part II): As I stated before, we’re using very outdated camera technology when we decided to grab a 15, 17 or more years old cameras to go out for a spin. Basically, we’re accepting to go back in time – sort of – to create images with the technical limitations of that that era. That assumption may sound “dramatic” to you, but certainly as 2022 goes, the camera’s technology has evolve greatly. And even when the overall image quality is great and quite useful for a lot of tasks, there are some caveats worth to mention. A) Dynamic range: It may vary from camera to camera. But it only makes sense to think that older technology and small sized raw files won’t provide a wild latitude of dynamic range to edit. I’m not implying that its terrible or unusable, but as a rule of thumb I would recommend you to try to keep well controlled your highlights. And same as applies with today’s cameras, at the lower ISO files you will get the finest potential of those dslrs. Now that I mention B) ISO’s: The lower values of ISO will be the most flexible to edit and work with. But even at 100 ISO you will find “grain” if you push up too much the file trying to recovering details from the shadows. This is related with the limited dynamic range mention above. In other aspects, you could start noticing grain at the mark of 800 ISO and above. I have taken photos at 1600 or even 2000 + ISO’s with decent results. One positive aspect worthy of mention here is that the “noise/grain” actually looks fairly nice. It reminds me the film grain. Shooting willingly at high ISO values it may work as a creative look, depending the context of what you’re trying to achieve.

A 8.2 megapixel file from the Canon 20D. You have to be aware of the limitations of this files, even at lower ISO values. Is it impossible to editing them? No, but you have to pay more attention to your photo technic since they aren’t as forgiving as modern raw files.

Personally, I got those “sub 12 megapixel” cameras as a challenge – for calling myself “photographer”– and even when I bought them exclusively to the outdoors in shinny days due to their limitations, to be honest now that I have witnessed that you can get good results in low lighting using large apertures and staying still while you photograph with slower shutters speeds, I wouldn’t mind using them at the night time if would be necessary.

Open your f/stop, slow your shutter speeds and hold your camera still. You should be able to get away with useful images even with this old cameras.

2) Compact Flash Cards (CF cards): Not an issue for me, but it could be for you. Back in the day, the compact flash cards were the standard. You can still find them on Ebay by millions. Just check the compatibility between your camera and the cards type (I, II, III) that they can read with no issues. If you decide to buy one this old dslrs make sure if the seller mentions something about the storage of the camera. If the seller won’t include the Compact Flash card, you’ll have to buy it separately. And while you’re doing so, don’t forget to buy a CF card reader. If the camera includes the USB cable, you may get away transferring your photos to the computer that way.

3) Auto Focus and frame rate: Did I mention already that we are dealing with old technology?? Oh, sorry! I forgot I did it. The cameras from the early 2000’s are equipped with just a few “auto focus dots”. And their continuous tracking systems is quite humble. Is not impossible to get photographs from fast moving subjects, but if you’re used to more recent cameras, pretty much you’re going to end up feeling frustrated. The frame rate for second back in that era was also very slow. The speed of four or five photographs for a second were something almost miraculous and to brag about in the 2000’s. If the cameras could talk, the latest equipment probably would make bullying to those brave old dslrs. And again, not an issue for me. I always use the center point to focus, then I recompose as need it and… well, you know what happen next! But you have to take it in consideration to determine if is suitable for your style or your shooting needs.

4) Limited cropping: I’m not sure if I should even mention this. In an ideal world, you would create a “super wining awards photo” every time you snap the shutter. And yes, I understand that you should be aware of your composition and all the fundamentals in photography, but sometimes you have to capture what is happening in the moment or not documenting nothing at all. In those instances, you may want (or need) to crop your image. Sometimes a little, sometimes a lot. Sure, you can crop it. But in that regard higher megapixels (24, 36, etc) in a sensor will a have the advantage, not only for cropping flexibility, but also for “down-sampling” and because of the superior dynamic range of the bigger raw files can render. But maybe I’m just exaggerating. If you crop just a little still going to end up with an useful image.

You’ll should be ok if you crop your files (slightly). This is a small cropping from the Canon 20D.
The world didn’t ended.

5) The LCD Screen: Since they are so tiny, there is not to much to say here. Basically they are useful enough to navigate the menu. Image wise, don’t relay on the screen to choose if you keep or delete a photo. And I say it because the image on those LCD screens don’t make justice to photograph that you see. Once you download the raw files on your computer, you’ll see an abysmal difference.

6) No 8k, 4K, 1080 p, no video!. The first dslr ever that recorded video was the Nikon D90 (at 720 p) then follow up shortly after by the Canon 5D MK II which was a revolutionary dslr in the industry back in 2008 for it’s ability to record in 1080 p. But prior to those cameras, the dslrs were designed for photographs only.

Can you tell the difference between this 10.2 and 45 megapixel file if you watch it from your smartphone?

Is a 10 (or less) megapixels camera for you?

If you ask me, then I must say “Yes, it is for me!” Their file size and megapixels count may be small and low by today’s trends, but still is suitable to create good quality images. This old cameras makes you slow down but not in a bad way. You have to be aware of their limitations so you’ll pay more attention in what you’re doing to take a photo. It’s almost like using a film camera but with a digital sensor, if it makes sense to you. They are far for being perfect tools for the trade, but still capable and worthy to consider. For a $100 or less, putting in your hands such a rugged camera (even with it’s corks) should be embrace as a challenge to your photographic abilities. Now is up to you!

I hope this information helps.

Thanks for your time!

Lo que debes saber antes de comprar tu primera cámara D-slr!

Saludos!

Cada día alrededor del mundo, miles de almas libres con naturaleza creativa se muestran receptivas a enfocar sus aptitudes en una forma de arte muy especial: La Fotografía.

Por ello, la curiosidad despierta la necesidad interna de investigar las opciones del mercado actual en búsqueda de “esa primera cámara” para iniciar su aprendizaje y experiencia en tan noble disciplina. El presente texto se redacta con la idea de servir como guía técnica en cuanto a las cámaras tipo d-slr que al día de hoy abundan en el mercado con amplitud de precios y modelos. No se trata de una guía en cuanto a los principios básicos de fotografía, ya que es una enseñanza que cada persona deberá asumir llegado el momento oportuno. La presente, es para señalar y diferenciar aspectos técnicos y consideraciones que deben tomarse en cuenta para lograr la adquisición de equipo fotográfico que mejor se adapte al presupuesto y necesidades del futuro fotógrafo o fotógrafa.

Si bien existen diversas marcas de fabricantes de cámaras en el mercado, en virtud de que Canon y Nikon son quienes captan gran parte del terreno fotográfico, haré mención más específica en cuanto a estos dos fabricantes.  Debo aclarar, que si usted adquiere una cámara totalmente nueva, la cual viene directamente del fabricante hasta el local comercial donde es comprada; no tendrá que preocuparse por algunos aspectos que posteriormente se enunciarán en el texto. Debido a que el mercado de equipo fotográfico de segunda mano tiene tantas ramificaciones, la mayoría de elementos a prestar atención lo serán si lo que se busca es comprar cámaras usadas a terceras personas.

 

Gamas de cámaras: No toda cámara de lentes intercambiables  es “profesional”.

Primeramente, es necesario aclarar algo. Tanto en comercios como en anuncios de particulares que venden sus equipos fotográficos, suele indicarse “cámara profesional” cuando lo que se pretende vender no es desde el punto de vista técnico, según las especificaciones del mismo fabricante, un modelo de cámara profesional. Mi persona no podría asegurar si se trata de una estrategia engañosa de mercadeo o si bien es simple desconocimiento del vendedor al asumir que todas las cámaras tipo d-slr son por defecto “profesionales”. Esto deseo aclararlo, ya que usted, como futuro comprador de un producto, merece tener una noción de la realidad, lo cual es lo que se pretende con ésta guía.

¿Qué son las gamas?

Todos los fabricantes de bienes, por lo general clasifican sus productos dentro de gamas o categorías. Siendo que los fabricantes a los modelos de gama alta (profesional) les conceden atributos técnicos y características que garantizan mayor durabilidad y capacidad de soportar abusos por parte del usuario, ya que justamente son productos diseñados para ser utilizados como herramientas de una profesión. Las cámaras para personas principiantes, diseñadas para el aprendizaje y fotografías en entornos más apacibles, suelen venir con menos características técnicas y con cuerpos de cámara de construcción más básica, carente de tanto soporte estructural. Por motivo de ello, los precios entre las cámaras principiantes, semi-profesionales y profesionales, varían ampliamente.

¿Necesito acaso de una cámara profesional para lograr buenas fotografías?

No, para nada! No se requiere el equipo más caro y de última tecnología para lograr capturar buenas imágenes. Muchos aspectos de la fotografía como entender la luz y lograr una adecuada composición a la hora de encuadrar la imagen, revisten prioridad dando a su vez como resultado que el equipo a utilizar no sea tan importante. Es preferible perfeccionar las técnicas fotográficas y no desvivirse por obtener el equipo más caro y novedoso. Evidentemente, si desea incursionar en un ámbito especializado de la fotografía, como por ejemplo fotos de deportes, si será necesario buscar cámaras diseñadas y pensadas para tales propósitos. Ya que para capturar deportes se requieren ágiles sistemas de enfoque y altas capacidades de disparo por segundo. Lejos de ello, para fotografía de retratos, paisajes, productos y otras actividades cotidianas; podrán ser cubiertas básicamente con cualquier modelo de cámara disponible. Lo ideal si sería adquirir óptica de grado profesional dentro de la medida de las posibilidades. Buena óptica potenciará la calidad de las fotografías y explotará la calidad de imagen que el sensor de su cámara tenga para ofrecer. Además de que posteriormente podría adquirir un modelo más avanzado de cámara y contar para ese entonces con una respetable colección de lentes.

¿Cómo reconozco la diferencia entre cámaras principiantes, semi-profesionales y profesionales?

Al inicio indiqué que tomaré como referencia Canon y Nikon, al ser estos los oferentes más ampliamente buscados por fotógrafos de todas las categorías de experiencia. Sin restar mérito – claro está — a otras casas comerciales, ya que los mismos principios en cuanto a la disposición de gamas serán cubiertos por fabricantes como Sony, Pentax, Fuji y otros.

Aclarado lo anterior, resulta sobre abundante mencionar una lista extensa que incluya cada uno de los modelos alguna vez fabricados por Canon y Nikon. Por ello, mencionaré las respectivas series y citaré algunos modelos de referencia.

En cuanto a Canon. Los modelos de gama principiante son los modelos de la serie “Rebel” (T3, T4, T5, etc). Los modelos de gama intermedia o semi-profesional serían la Canon 60D, Canon 7D y Canon 6D. Ya en la línea profesional, Canon ofrece la serie 5D en cámaras de aplicación general, siendo que sus modelos “caballo de batalla” para fotografía en ambientes extremos o deportes, sería la serie EOS 1D y sus consecuentes versiones (Mk II, MK III).

Canon

                De izquierda a derecha:                                                                                                                           Canon Rebel (principiante). Canon 6D (semi-profesional) y Canon 1DX (profesional)

 

Si hablamos de Nikon, la gama principiante recae en los modelos de la serie D3000 y D5000 (y sus consecuentes versiones). La gama semi profesional inicia con la serie D7000, la D600, D610, D750, etc. Mientras que cámaras como la D700, D800, D850 son cámaras de gama profesional de uso general (es decir, cámaras para retrato, paisajes, productos); siendo las cámaras de aplicaciones deportivas y de uso extremo, son los modelos D3, D4, D5 y actualmente la D6.

Nikon

              De izquierda a derecha:                                                                                                                                Nikon D3400 (principiante). Nikon D750 (semi profesional) y Nikon D5 (profesional)

 

 

Tamaño del sensor. Sensor recortado y sensor de 35 milímetros.

De previo a referirme a los tamaños de los sensores digitales, pero siempre de la mano con la temática de las gamas de modelos; debo indicar que el hecho de que un modelo de cámara cuente con un sensor digital de 35 milímetros, no la convierte automáticamente un modelo profesional (según las especificaciones del fabricante), ya que básicamente son cámaras semi-profesionales con un sensor de mayor tamaño al encontrado en los modelos de gama principiante  – a manera de ejemplo, cámaras con sensor de 35mm serían la Canon 6D y Nikon D600 –.

sensor-size-diagram

Comparación aproximada de los tamaños entre sensor de 35mm y sensor recortado o “APS-C”

Ahora bien, las cámaras de gama principiante y casi todas las cámaras semi profesionales, salvo algunas excepciones, cuentan con sensores recortados. ¿Pero cuál es la diferencia? El sensor de 35 milímetros equivale al tamaño de un cuadro de película analógica de 35 milímetros (36mm x 24mm). El campo de visión que obtiene en la fotografía será igual a los milímetros del lente utilizado por la cámara. Ejemplo, si utilizo un lente de 50 milímetros en mi cámara con sensor de 35mm, obtendré una foto con un ángulo de encuadre de 50 mm, si utilizo un lente de 24 milímetros, tendré un rango focal de 24 milímetros en la fotografía capturada.

Por su parte, el sensor recortado tiene menores dimensiones (23.6mm x 15.6mm) y por ello, amplifica los milímetros del lente utilizado en la cámara. Los sensores en Canon amplifican en un factor de 1.6 veces y los sensores recortados en Nikon amplifican en 1.5 veces el rango focal del lente. A manera de ejemplo, si utilizó un lente de 50 milímetros en una cámara Nikon D7100 (sensor recortado), el factor de multiplicación dará como resultado una fotografía con rango focal equivalente a 75 milímetros, ello debido al factor de multiplicación de 1.5 que agrega el sensor recortado a los milímetros del lente.

07 julio 2020 FX

Imagen tomada a 60 centímetros con un lente 50 mm en un sensor de 35 mm.

 

07 julio 2020 DX

Foto captada a 60 centímetros con un lente 50 mm pero esta vez con un sensor recortado. Vemos como el factor de multiplicación de 1.5 veces, crea un equivalente focal de 75 mm, lo cual acerca la imagen; aún y cuando se tomó a la misma distancia y lente de la imagen previa.

Es importante tomar en cuenta el tamaño del sensor, ya que si es su primera compra de una cámara, afectará en varios factores:

  • El precio. Cámaras con sensores de 35 milímetros por lo general tendrán un valor económico más elevado, aunado al hecho de que las cámaras que tienen este tamaño de sensor son cámaras semi-profesionales y profesionales, exclusivamente.
  • El tipo de lentes a utilizar. Tanto Canon como Nikon, a como tienen diferentes gamas de cámaras, también tienen gamas de lentes. Si se utiliza lentes para sensores recortados en cámaras de sensores de 35 milímetros, se creará una vigñeta en la fotografía tomada. Ya que el diseño de la óptica está basado en uso exclusivo para sensores recortados. Por el contrario, si se utilizan lentes diseñados para sensores de 35 mm en cámaras de sensores recortados, no se producirá dicho problema. No obstante, en la marca Canon utilizar lentes de 35 milímetros (lentes EF) en cámaras de sensor recortado, podría causar que el espejo de la cámara golpee con la parte posterior del lente que se adentra en la montura de la cámara.  Para efectos prácticos y evitar tales inconvenientes, al utilizar Canon lo recomendable es utilizar lentes EF-S en las cámaras de sensor recortado y los lentes EF exclusivamente usarlos en cámaras de sensores de 35 mm. En el caso de las cámaras Nikon, se pueden utilizar lentes para sensores de 35mm (lentes FX) en cámaras de sensores recortados sin ningún problema. Los lentes Nikon diseñados para sensores recortados en Nikon se denominan DX. La ventaja propia de los sensores recortados es el amplificar los milímetros de los lentes, lo cual puede ser particularmente útil si se toma fotos de animales en la naturaleza o para deportes donde se requiere permanecer a distancia. Como ejemplo, un lente de 70-300 milímetros en Nikon con un sensor de formato DX, sería equivalente a 105 a 450 milímetros.

    07 julio 2020 DX on FX

    Ejemplo del efecto vigñeta que se da cuando se utiliza un lente diseñado para un sensor recortado (APS-C) en una cámara con sensor de 35 mm.

Así que en síntesis, vemos que el tamaño del tamaño del sensor va a influir en el precio de nuestra cámara y también en cuanto a la selección de óptica que posteriormente decidamos utilizar según las prestaciones del equipo que logremos adquirir.

En forma general, se ha analizado las diferentes categorías de cámaras según las gamas otorgadas por sus fabricantes, las dos opciones en cuanto a tamaños de sensores disponibles e incluso se ha realizado una breve mención de cual variedad de óptica debería preferiblemente utilizarse para cada formato de sensor. Como lo resalté en un inicio, si compras una cámara nueva, en buena teoría debería funcionar excepcionalmente sin fallo alguno debido a su condición. No obstante, en caso contrario, si por cuestión de presupuesto o aprovechando una oportunidad inesperada, se presenta la opción de adquirir una cámara de segunda mano; se deberán analizar los siguientes aspectos en aras de asegurar la más sabía adquisición a cambio de su dinero.

  • Condición estética: Por el uso y el paso del tiempo, el equipo fotográfico se ve expuesto a riesgos propios que son inherentes a su función como objetos de uso en el exterior e inevitablemente marcarán su condición cosmética, como lo pueden ser ralladuras en su acabado, abolladuras en el cuerpo de la cámara, perdida de partes o controles externos y/o quebraduras en sus pantallas de control o visualización. La degradación en la estética de la cámara podría ser una simple alteración en la cosmética del equipo, lo cual no afectaría su funcionamiento habitual. Pero en el caso de pérdida de partes o grietas en la pantalla de la cámara, podría darse interferencia el normal desempeño del equipo. Lo que conllevará el plantearse si vale la pena comprar el equipo e invertir en la reparación del mismo o si simplemente es mejor seguir buscando un modelo de cámara igual que presente mejores condiciones generales. De toda suerte, si la condición cosmética de la cámara no favorece su presentación, se puede ofrecer al vendedor un rebajo en el precio para compensar tal circunstancia.

 

  • Número de actuaciones o disparos del obturador.

Cada vez que se presiona el disparador de una cámara, se activa el sistema de obturación a efectos de poder permitir el levantamiento del espejo y con ello dar el paso de luz a través del lente y plasmar la captura de una imagen en el sensor, el cual a su vez transmite el archivo digital a una tarjeta de memoria. Como todo en éste mundo, el sistema de obturación de las cámaras tiene una expectativa de vida útil que se calcula en base a los disparos realizados. Retomando brevemente las gamas o categorías de cámaras de cada fabricante, debo indicar que de acuerdo a la categoría profesional del equipo fotográfico, más alta es la expectativa de vida útil que tendrá el obturador de la cámara. A manera de ejemplo, una Nikon de la serie D5000 – gama principiante – tiene un sistema de obturador con una expectativa de vida de 100.000 (cien mil) disparos. Un modelo semi profesional como lo podría ser una Nikon D7100, promedia una vida útil de 150.000 (ciento cincuenta mil) disparos. Modelos de línea profesional como la Nikon D800, tiene prevista una vida útil de 200.000 (doscientos mil) disparos e inclusive modelos como la Nikon D4 tienen sistemas de obturaciones que se espera que logren los 400.000 (cuatrocientos mil) disparos.  Vemos entonces, una vez más una justificación del por qué la gama del equipo influye en el precio de lo producto que usted desee comprar. Pero bueno, nada está escrito en piedra! Ningún artefacto producido por el ser humano está exento de fallar sin razón aparente. Una cámara Nikon D7100, podría superar el número de 150.000 disparos y llegar hasta las 200.000 obturaciones. De igual forma, podría fallar el sistema de obturación a los 10.000 sin razón aparente. Mi punto es que el número establecido por el fabricante en cuanto a disparos del obturador, al final es una expectativa. Éste podría fallar antes de cumplir la vida útil diseñada o inclusive seguir funcionando más allá de lo esperado y superar el monto de disparos previstos. Al final es una estadística y una combinación de suerte. Para lo que nos interesa, vamos a comparar mediante analogía el número de obturaciones de una cámara con el número de kilometraje recorrido por un auto. Si nos avocamos a comprar un automóvil de segunda, si dicho automotor cuenta con pocos kilómetros recorridos, mejor opción será para nosotros. El mismo principio aplica para las cámaras fotográficas.  Si por ejemplo, le interesa comprar una Nikon D3200, cuya expectativa de vida del obturador es de 100.000 disparos y con dicha cámara se han realizado 12.000 obturaciones, evidentemente ese bajo número de disparos es preferible a otra cámara del mismo modelo que cuente con 85.000 disparos. Un alto número de obturaciones no solo acerca la posibilidad estadística de una falla del equipo que se desee adquirir, sino que también un gasto adicional que acarrearía el remitir la cámara a un técnico especializado para revisión y cambio del mecanismo de obturación, el cual es posible sustituirlo, desconociendo mi persona el  precio a cancelar por su reemplazo. Así que para todos los efectos y dentro de la medida de lo posible, lo ideal sería optar por adquirir equipo con poco uso y de un ex propietario de naturaleza cuidadosa.

  • Compra de lentes: La óptica reviste gran importancia en el resultado final de la fotografía. Una cámara sin un lente colocado, es incapaz de percibir una imagen concreta, de hecho solo captaría una luz luminosa sin enfoque alguno. Piensa en el sensor de tu cámara como un ojo que requiere lentes para poder ver adecuadamente. Si utilizamos anteojos de baja calidad y óptica deficiente, ciertamente podremos ver, pero no será con la mejor calidad de imagen. En cambio sí se invierte en lentes de una gama superior, la calidad de imagen que logrará percibir nuestra visión, no tendrá comparación alguna! Lo mismo aplica para la óptica que se vende a nivel comercial. Cada fabricante produce lentes de diversas gamas, pensando en los diferentes presupuestos de los usuarios potenciales. No obstante, al comprar óptica de baja gama, si bien logramos conseguir una forma de producir imágenes, no representará ésta la realidad de lo que el sensor de nuestra cámara podría realmente ofrecer. En éste caso, sacrificamos óptima calidad de imagen a cambio de ahorrar dinero.  Pero al inicio, si el presupuesto previsto solo permite la compra de óptica de estándar comercial, no se preocupe! Todo en la vida reviste esfuerzos y lo importante es iniciarse en la fotografía con los medios disponibles. Solo quiero puntualizar que el adquirir posteriormente lentes de excelente calidad debería ser una prioridad para cualquier entusiasta de la fotografía a largo plazo.

Ahora bien! ¿Qué aspectos debo tomar en cuenta para la compra de lentes? Al igual que la estética exterior de la cámara, si el lente se encuentra raspado o con ligeras dentaduras, pero no afecta el funcionamiento del mismo; se puede respetuosamente ofrecer al vendedor un modesto rebajo en el precio. En el caso del sistema eléctrico, se debe verificar que el motor que asiste el sistema de auto enfoque trabaje debidamente. Los anillos de enfoque manual, deben rotar libremente sin quedarse atascados en ciertas partes del recorrido. Pero más importante aún que la apariencia general, es el estado de la óptica del lente. El lente delantero y el vidrio trasero, idealmente deben estar libres de rayones. Los elementos internos (lentes), deben estar libres de hongos y exceso de suciedad acumulada en forma de partículas de polvo. En algunas ocasiones, ligeras ralladuras o pequeñas cantidades de polvo en el lente, no afectan lo suficiente para reflejarse en la fotografía. Todo lente siempre puede llevarse a limpiar profesionalmente, pero evidentemente sería un gasto adicional en el cual usted deberá valorar si el lente que se quiere merece el esfuerzo existiendo otros oferentes en mejor condición general.

Dejando de lado la condición cosmética de la cámara y el número de obturaciones del equipo, de previo acordar un precio definitivo, es importante que su persona y el vendedor tengan una clara comunicación, logrando establecer conjuntamente — sin dejar espacios para puntos oscuros – todos los pormenores de la negociación; como por ejemplo aclarar si el precio incluye algún lente o si solo el cuerpo de la cámara (el cual normalmente se entrega con un cargador y batería), si el precio incluye accesorios adicionales como estuches, flash, filtros u otros. A su vez, siempre que sea posible, concertar un encuentro en persona en el que usted pueda verificar la condición de la cámara, su funcionamiento y con ello verificar el contenido de los accesorios pactados con el precio. Utilice el sentido común, salvo que el vendedor sea una persona por usted conocida o de su total confianza; nunca realice el adelanto parcial o total del pago del equipo a comprar sin recibir el mismo. No se exponga a ser víctima de fraudes. Si va a comprar una cámara por internet, ya sea Ebay, Amazon u otra plataforma web de similar índole, revise el historial del vendedor y las calificaciones junto a las reseñas otorgadas por clientes previos. Plataformas de ventas estables como Ebay, protegen al comprador y ante un eventual incumplimiento por parte del vendedor, se puede entablar un reclamo y recibir un reembolso parcial o total, según sea el caso, del dinero cancelado por el artículo.

Ya expuestos en forma general los aspectos técnicos que deben analizarse de previo a adquirir equipo fotográfico por primera vez, deberá usted tomarse el tiempo para formularse que metas desea lograr con su primera cámara. Plantearse si lo que desea es fotografiar paisajes, retratos, fotografía de productos o deportes. En base a sus propias respuestas, podrá enfocar mejor su esfuerzo en estudiar  modelos de cámara que cumplan los criterios técnicos que le sean idóneos para lograr sus propósitos dentro del ámbito de la fotografía. En igual sentido, ciertas disciplinas fotográficas requieren óptica especializada, como lo pueden ser lentes angulares en el caso de fotografía de arquitectura o lentes telefotos en caso de deportes o animales silvestres; por lo que dicho aspecto deberá tomarlo en cuenta para la selección de lentes que desee conseguir y lograr conjuntamente con su primera cámara. La fotografía es un arte con una temática amplia en demasiados aspectos, por lo cual lo invito a siempre mostrar anuencia en repasar y renovar sus conocimientos, ya que en esta pasión nunca se dejan de aprender cosas nuevas!

 Espero que la lectura le haya sido de ayuda!

D700: An iconic dslr from Nikon.

I would like to share a short story with you. “Some time ago, I was at home. I walked towards my computer. Ethan, my cat crosses my way between my feet and made me stumbled. By instinct I reach out my hands to avoid hitting my face with the computer’s desk. At the same time, my right hand grabs the computer’s mouse clicking the “buy it now” botton on ebay… and just like that I purchased an old but trusty Nikon D700. It was a happy accident, if you will.”

Well, maybe the things didn’t happen that way. Is what I like to tell  myself to justify buying another camera for my collection. But the Nikon D700 is not just any random camera lacking merits worth to mention. It has earned itself a solid status and the respect of the “always perfectionist” photographers community. Released to the market in july of 2008,  it has been out there making images for over a decade. Proving to old photographers that the D700 still deserves a place in the camera’s field and it’s becoming with time a cult camera for newer photographers, whose are slowly learning that great photo quality is not exclusive of the most recent camera gear.

Nikon D700_

Since you can find detailed specs on the vast wisdom of the almighty Oracle (Google), I will mention just a few technisism here and there, just the ones that could be useful for you to consider the D700 as a viable purchase option in 2019.

Let’s explore this Nikon proposal from the past!

01) Price:

The trick for a good deal is when you feel like “you won” with the product that you buyed from someone else. That premise holds true if you get an excellent quality camera trading a fair amount of money in exchange. Today, you can find on Ebay D700’s bodies anywhere from $350 to $700 (priced at $2800/$3000 in 2008). I noticed the mark of $500 as the average price for the D700, but if you’re a pacient and search calmly, you may get away with a mint condition camera for less of the average price. In my case, I found a “mint condition” D700 for $400 with only 40.000 shutter actuactions. For a 150.000 rated shutter mechanism, literally at 40.000 actuactions, that shutter is barely warming up.

Great cameras like the D700 don’t drop in price because all the sudden they become useless artifacts. They low their economic value  because newer cameras arrives to the market. Newer technologies are more expensive to produce, as a result they are tagged higher in cost by the camera’s manufactors. Over time, years in technical upgrades and generations of newer cameras, transform high capable dslrs like the D700 in modern gems.

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Don’t let this 12 mp sensor fool you! There is plenty dynamic range in it. Even when the file sizes aren’t as big as the most recent cameras.

02) General features:

Ok, this is the “specs part” of the review. I’ll just mention a few of them. You can read them all here: D700 specs!

* Full frame 12.1 megapixels sensor (FX).

The D700 uses the same sensor found in the Nikon D3. For many of us and for the most of the photography’s aplications, 12 megapixels is more than enough. You could print photos as big as 20 x 30 inches in size and still get good quality.

* 51 autofocus points and 5 frames per second shooting speed.

Five frames per second was highly regarded in 2008. And even today is very decent high rate of shooting — of course, there are faster cameras suited for sports and action photography — but you can get 8 frames per second with the aditional vertical grip. Personally, I only use the center point of the viewfinder and then I recompose as needed. Since I don’t shoot “sports or action”, those features aren’t important to me. But it’s worth mention for you, maybe it’s something that you can look for in a dslr.

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The D700’s sensor it’s well known for the way it renders colors on skin tones.

* 200 to 6400 ISO (100 to 25600 expanded ISO values)

Well, if you’re considering the D700 for daylight photos, landscapes, studio use with speedlights, the high ISO’s maybe won’t matter that much to you. But if you are a nocturnal creature who takes photos with only the avaibable light; in the “High ISO department”, the D700 won’t dissapoint you neither. Being a full frame sensor with fewer megapixels, it means that the photocells are larger to capture more light than smaller sensors. That just means better low light performance. You can get away with useful images even at the 8000/10000 ISO mark. At 12.800 ISO, you still can get decent quality for small prints or web use. At 25.600 ISO, let’s just say “it’s there, it’s there”. I don’t want to start out a “polemic topic here”, but for what I’ve seen by personal experience, newer cameras with crop sensors (like the Fuji X-Pro2, for example) can match or even surpass the D700 in high ISO values (but not by much). Is not something negative. For a camera from 2008 that still delivers excellent high ISO files, it’s not a critique. It’s just a testament of how perfect this camera was back then and how great piece of gear it’s still today!

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A 8000 ISO example. In my humble opinion, it’s a totally usable picture.

*  Rugged magnesium-alloy construction with weather sealing.

The D700 it’s sturdy dslr. Well built and solid. That makes it heavy, though. It weigths almost one kilogram (950 grs or something). It has weather sealing, a nice feature to have especially if you live in a rainy country called Costa Rica. But hey! Protec your investment. No camera is 100% weatherproof against moisture or rain. It’s a plus feature that it’s there to help you to get away from the rain until you find some cover for your equipment. It’s not a magical shield against the elements. If you need to take photos under a torrential monsonic rainstorm, use common sense and cover your gear with a dslr’s plastic casing or an improved plastic bag.

* The shutter mechanism was desing to endure 150,000 cycles. 

The D700 has a tested 150.000 cycles shutter mechanism. It doesn’t mean that your D700 will die as soon as it’s takes the 150.000th photograph. It’s just an expectation of how much the shutter could last. Some D700’s owners out there are reporting that their cameras had taken as much as 180.000, 200.000 or even more shutter actuactions. Nikon truly designed the D700 to endure. But regardless of that, if you can find a camera with a low shutter count, it will be a happier day for you!

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The D700’s viewfinder covers only 95% of the frame. In practice, it doesn’t affect composition “that much”. That crappy photo doesn’t makes justice to the real experience of gazing through the D700’s viewfinder.

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The D700’s back button layout is easy and intuitive. The Arenal Volcano far in the distance.

03) Image quality:

Did I already mention that the D700 shares the same sensor found in the Nikon D3?? Oh, yes. I did it. The color tonalities coming out of that “humble 12 megapixels sensor” are simply beautiful. You really are getting premium image quality for a bargain price, it doesn’t matter if that image is only 12 megapixels. Quality don’t care about megapixels. If you use a nice prime lens and compare photos between old and modern Nikon’s, to the naked eye probably no one could guess wich photo it’s from a 10+ years old D700 and wich one is from the D850.

Don’t get me wrong! I’m not against many megapixels in the camera’s sensor. The advance in technology has allow to achieve more “millions of pixels count” in every newer camera model since the begining of the digital photography. It’s actually an expected and logical evolution. But in the practical reality, 12 megapixels are more than enough for websites and social media aplications and even for decent size prints. Ask yourself: Do I print my images? How often and how big I print??  If you’re not printing, well… Then you should! At least make a small selection of photos and bring them to this tactile and visual reality of yours.

Quick tips!

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The D700’s will give you nice colors even under artificial lights.

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Since this camera is not afraid to the high ISO’s, you can document life without needing a flash.

04) 8K video recording at 240 fps!:

 Just kidding! This classic modern gem came from an era prior to the video capabilities in the dslr world.

I’ll try to keep this post simple. As a resume: 1) Fairly low price for a workhorse camera. 2) You get a highly capable dslr with a lot of features. 3) Great FX image quality. What else can you ask for?!

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Remember, back in 2008 the camera sensors without “low pass filter” were considered science fiction. Nevertheless, match the D700 with a prime lens and you will see sharp results.

But is it the D700 for you??  

Simple. The D700 will cover most of the photographic situations that you can think of. The rugged built and image quality it’s there! Besides, it’s quite a bargain this days. If you care about video, then forget it. This camera was designed when the dslr’s were for stills, only. If you “constantly need to crop your photos”, then a D800, D810, D850…. or even a 24 megapixels DX camera to “get the most out your focal milimeters” will be a better option for you. If “video or cropping” is not the case, don’t hesitate to get your own D700 as soon as you can!

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An unedited raw file converted to jpg

Conclusion:

For the things I’ve seen and the experience I have now by using different cameras and brands, if I was just about to purchased my first dslr ever, then I would buy a Nikon D700 over an expensive “entry level modern Nikon”. You get more built quality and a finest equipment for just a fraction of the cost. Then I would use the rest of the money to get a couple of beautiful prime lenses. But hey, it’s just me. In fact, the D700 is such a garbain camera nowdays, that I got a second body in great condition for just $350! Apart from my Nikon FE, the D700 it’s the only camera model that made me feel that a second unit (as a “back up” or call it whatever you want), “it’s a must have”. I’m not the wisest man on the earth, but I know that you only live once and life itself is quite short. So, don’t die wanting put your hands around a camera that you have admired for years. Treat yourself with an iconic camera.

Thanks for reading!

Saal Digital Photobook overview

Disclaimer: I’m not been paid or sponsored by Saal Digital. The opinions of this publication are my own thoughts about their service as a tangible product.

This is a short overview about my experience with three photo books that I ordered from Saal Digital company. As far as I know, Saal Digital it’s a company based in Germany, but they are printing in different countries by now. In my case, the photo books that I own were printed by Saal Digital in the United States.
Of course there are a lot of companies to choose from if you want to print your photographs. In honor to the truth, I haven’t printed photos from other companies to have a parameter of comparison. But if you search opinions out there and reviews, you’ll fiind a lot of satisfaced costumers giving to you their opinion about Saal. Now I’m one of them.

SD overview

Here’s why. 01) Intuitive and easy to use software. You just download it in your computer and in no time you’ll be ready to sent your first photo book for printing.

02) They work fast! Once you pay for your product, the software uploads your photos for printing. Usually, your new photobook will take 2 to 4 days to arrive.

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It’s easy to personalize and organize your photo books.

03) Materials and printing quality:
The photographic paper that they use has a fair thickness to it. It doesn’t feel to fragile, but neither too thick to add excessive weight to your album. Just the right amount.

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I ordered matte finish paper in the pages with the internal photos and also in the cover and back cover. It may be hard to tell the difference in you look the photos from your cellphone/computer´s screen, but there is a difference with the cover and the internal photos. The cover exterior photos are “true matte finish”. However, the internal photos have a layer with a “slightly glossy finish”. It’s not a deal breaker by any mean, it’s like a 90% “matte”, but take it in consideration. If you order glossy finish, it will cost you a few more dollars. I prefer matte finish anyway.

SD overview-4

As far as image quality, well, it will depends how big your files are. The software will tell you if your photo lacks quality. Let’s say you upload a small sized jpg. The software it’s going to indicates you if that specific image is poor for printing. Pay attention to it!
The prints that I received looks like exactly as I edited. Even when my computer’s monitor is not “profesionally calibrated”, the colors match!

SD overview-6

The only noticeable difference that I can tell is in the photos taken at night. Especially the sky, I noticed that it’s 1/2 stop darker compared to the digital image. But hey! Nothing worthy to lose your temper. As I said, my computer´s monitor is not calibrated. It may be just that!

SD overview-7

SD overview-2

As you can see in the this photo, the fingerprints and other substances can be seen in the external photos in you choose “matte finish”. If that could bother you, you may want to choose glossy finish in the cover and back cover. Just a thought!

04) Print! Just print!
Images are meant to be seen in a physical form. They just are! Take some time to select at least your favorite photographs and create a few photo books to share them with the people you care about. It’s totally worth it. It doesn’t matter wich camera system you use or wich printing company you choose, as long as you smile staring at your printed passion. Go for it!

Thanks for reading!

Shame

Cinestill 800025

You’re gonna walk on home. You’re gonna walk alone. You’re gonna see this through. Don’t let them get to you. 

Cinestill 800033

Love is good and love is kind. Love is drunk and love is blind. Love is good and love is mine. Love is drunk all the time.

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You’re gonna walk on home. You’re gonna walk alone. You’re gonna walk so far. You’re gonna wonder who you are.

Cinestill 800034

Love is good and love is kind. Love is good and love is blind. Love is good and love is mine.  Love is good all the time.

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Hello, goodbye, you know you made us cry. Hello, goodbye, you know you made us cry. Hello, goodbye, you know you made us cry. Hello, goodbye, you know you made us cry …

* Late 2016. Lyrics: “Shame” by The Smashing Pumpkins. Walking home on a foggy night with my Nikon FE loaded with some Cinestill 800 film on it. Falling in love with a girl that a few months later broke my heart until today.

Thanks for reading!

Fuji X-T1: The best way to begin with mirrorless cameras.

Who hasn’t heard about the “mirrorless revolution”? It’s not a novelty, but even when mirrorless cameras has been in the market for a while now, it was until 2018 that I began to play with those little modern machines. Yes, photography is an addictive hobby.

I heard from Fuji a few years ago. My curiosity drove me to search for a small camera  that was able to take RAW photos (You know, for the Raw files flexibility). That’s when I saw the Fuji’s proposal about rangefinder style cameras — The X100, actually –. But back then, the price was out my budget. Nevertheless, the whole Fuji concept was interesting and apealing to me. Since then, I have been following new models and learning towards the X-Series system.

The years went by. So, camera models that once were expensive, all of the sudden are out there for you to reach. That was my case with the X-T1 . The first generation “slr” type mirrorless from Fujifilm. You can find those beautiful suckers from $250 to $450 on Ebay. The average price will be $350. I paid $330 in 2018 for my X-T1. It’s the graphite silver version, but there is a black version also if you prefer a discreet profile.

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Leaving technical data aside, these are valid arguments to consider a Fuji X-T1:

  • The price drop! Since there are two newer versions of the XT Series (X-T2 & X-T3), the price of the X-T1 it’s a bargain!
  • General camera features: Small size, light weight, metal housing, weather sealed, very decent and crisp viewfinder, beautiful looking camera.
  • Image quality:  I know it may sound weird, but the first generation 16 megapixel sensor of the X-T1’s has certain magic. It renders beautiful files with pleasant colors.
  • Lenses flexibility: Different from the X100 series, the XT series were designed to be used with interchangeable lens. You can choose between Fuji lenses or third party lenses with adaptaders. For example, with a $2 adapter, I can use my Nikon/Pentax/M42’s vintage lenses with the Fuji system. You can use lenses with aperture ring, only.
  • Camera layout: All the adjustments previous to take the photo, are made with physical knobs. It’s a nice tactile experience that makes photoghapy fun.
  • Tiltable screen: For low or high level shoots. Personally, I often forget this feature and I don’t use the tiltable screen.
  • Wifi connection: For easy sharing your photos with friends or social networks, if that is your thing.

Fxt1-2

You can choose to set the adjustments manually or leave it on “Auto” if you are in a hurry or feeling lazy.

There is not such a thing as a “perfect camera”. The high ISO values in the X-T1 are great and more than adecuate for all around use. But the higher ISO setting that you can use is 6400 (if you shoot RAW), it is possible to use 12.800 ISO, but only in JPG format. Take note!  Well, is not a secret. The battery charge it’s very short, at least if you compared to your all week charged d-slr. But it’s not an exclusive “X-T1´s thing”. The battery charge is a topic related to all the Fuji’s in general. The electronic viewfinder (EVF) cosumes a lot of power from the battery. If you’re considering a mirrorless camera, buy a few spare batteries as soon as you can. You’re going to need them.

X-T1´s Samples:

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24 Junio 2018 04 (1 of 1)

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6400 ISO.

Unedited raw

Fuji RAF (Raw file) unedited.

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Small, yet beautiful and capable camera!

As I said before, there’s is not a perfect camera. But the X-T1 is a special camera indeed. I dare to blindly recommend the X-T1 to anyone who wants to give mirrorless cameras a try, or even if you´re looking to buy your first camera. You’ll get a camera that’s able to create stunning images in small and elegant body. Give it a try! You’ll thank me later.

Best regards!